Reveries on Kiener’s

» Posted by on Jun 17, 2012 in Blog | 37 comments

“Resist much, obey little.” Walt Whitman, Leaves of Grass

Longs Peak (14,259ft) – Kiener's Route with TK

Photo: TK


  1. Scary line…bff
    Now i realize the places i run are like a child playground….
    Well done Joe!
    Una abraçada des de Barcelona.

  2. There are a bit words for describing this place. It's amazing!

  3. So sick.

  4. Well done! What did you use to rap the cable route?

    • Tony did the route the day before with Buzz Burrell and Peter Bakwin so we knew there was a fixed rope on the short slab section. It was pretty wet so it would have been pretty sketchy without.

      • It looks plenty sketchy even with the rope. Yikes!

  5. purpose of the tent stakes revealed.
    the whole deal?
    so utterly bad ass.

  6. Sick line!  I can only imagine self arresting w/  cheapo 6" aluminum tent stakes.

  7. Stunning – especially the seventh picture from the top, that in particular is jaw-dropping in the way it shows both the beauty and danger of the trip. What's the spooky music?

    • Thanks, Matt. The music is Kronos Quartet – Alap of Raga Mishra Bhairavi.

  8. Epic awesomeness

  9. Simply Awesome !

  10. Inspiring, beautiful and scary – love it!

  11. Bakwin once told me that the Longs Peak speed record was the most impressive to him. Either of you guys have any interest in a go at it?

    • It’s a stout record. Beyond the fitness and skill required to get up and down the mountain that fast you also need to have the best route completely dialed in. When Chris Reveley set the (previous) record in 1979, he ran 3:39 at Pikes that year. There’s a good interview with Andy Anderson here His descent is really fast and involves taking some risk. I think Tony can get the uphill record and possibly the round trip if he spends enough time up there.

  12. Amazing…and now I am going to be sick. Take care guys. Live life on the edge, but give yourself another inch or two. Please. Life is worth living! You are both too precious to throw that away. Love Frosty

  13. Guys, beautiful video, haunting music…

    Given what happened on Mt. Blanc today, I hope you guys seriously assess the risks you are willing to take. The whole time watching the video I was thinking "if one of them dies this year, they're going to show this and it will have been prophetic". Sorry to be a downer. I just mean to say that cardio isn't the same thing as technical climbing skill and not to get in over your head because it's beautiful and others are doing it.

  14. wow!  So the tent stakes were for more than self arrest, they were you ice axes!

  15. Excellent Panorama and work out too.

  16. Thank you for the inspiration.

  17. Joe, no better accompaniment to this climb than your choice, Leaves of Grass:
    Examine these limbs, red, black, or white — they
         are so cunning in tendon and nerve,
    They shall be stript that you may see them.

    Exquisite senses, life-lit eyes, pluck, volition,
    Flakes of breast-muscle, pliant back-bone and
         neck, flesh not flabby, good-sized arms and
    And wonders within there yet.

    Within there runs blood — the same old blood!
         the same red running blood!
    There swells and jets a heart — there all passions,
         desires, reachings, aspirations …

  18. Really liked the raga. I can see some nice correlation between Bhairavi, which is traditionally used as a closing piece in an Indian classical concert with its peaceful and somewhat serious mood, and the scale of your adventure. 

  19. Wow.  Just wow.  Music really adds to the video and it's awesomeness.  And what a hairy route.  I'd be interested to know what you use for your head camera?  

    • Thanks, Nick. I used a GoPro Hero 2 for the filming here.

  20. incredible stuff, that is so well done.  i'm afraid of heights & consequently shit my pants after watching that.  but it was still worth it, great stuff  -Viper

  21. Nice one!!!

  22. somewhere in their peaks
    mountains covet their secrets
    winds cannot whisper
    beautiful line.

  23. This is awesome and inspiring! 
    Cheers from Belgium, aka "the flat land"!

  24. Does that bandanna have a bill?!? So sweet

  25. "Hayduke lives"…

  26. You need to submit this straightaway into the Banff Mountain Film Festival…

  27. Did not actually complete the true Kiener's rt. This requires all of Lamb's Slide. Also, fixed rope on Cables negates any true self supported FKT. Do over the right way and wear nothing but panties!

    • Nolan – we followed the ridge that parallels Lamb’s Slide as we didn’t carry ice axes or crampons. We didn’t claim the FKT or were going for it…just enjoying a good outing in the mountains.

  28. Awesome views…you guys got ice water in those veins!  Beautiful!!
    Mike Krupicka (yep…another Krupicka from Nebraska:)   )

  29. Love the video with the music! I've watched this video more times than I can count on one hand. Thanks for the great post of videos and pics!!! 

  30. Wow! Awesome. Thanks for sharing

  31. WOW!  How long for the ascent? descent?
    Some please define FKT


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